Frequently asked questions

A professionally installed epoxy floor typically lasts 10–20 years in residential settings, and 8–15 years in heavy commercial or industrial use. Quartz-broadcast and polyaspartic-topped systems can exceed 20 years with reasonable care.

The biggest factor in longevity isn't the resin — it's the surface preparation. A diamond-ground slab with a properly applied primer will outlast a thicker coating slapped onto a poorly prepared floor.

A standard double garage (around 40 m²) takes 2–3 working days for a traditional epoxy system: day one is grinding and repairs, day two is primer and base coat with flakes, day three is the clear topcoat.

Polyaspartic systems can be completed in a single day — grind, base, flake and topcoat all cure fast enough to layer in one continuous shift.

Foot traffic: 24 hours for standard epoxy, 4–6 hours for polyaspartic.

Vehicle traffic: 5–7 days for standard epoxy, 24 hours for polyaspartic. Full chemical cure for both is around 7 days — avoid heavy chemicals or dragging metal objects during this period.

A smooth, freshly sealed epoxy floor can be slippery when wet — similar to polished tile. For garages, outdoor areas, and any wet-prone space we add fine anti-slip aggregate to the topcoat. Flake floors are naturally slip-resistant because the flake creates a textured surface.

For commercial kitchens or food prep areas we recommend a full quartz-broadcast system, which meets Australian slip-resistance standards (R10–R12).

Yes, provided the slab is properly prepared. We use industrial diamond grinders to remove laitance, old coatings, oil contamination and the smooth surface that comes from concrete trowelling. We then apply a penetrating primer that mechanically bonds into the open pores.

Adhesion of a correctly installed system is typically stronger than the tensile strength of the concrete itself — if you try to remove it later, the concrete fails before the bond does.

Technically yes, but we usually recommend against it. The bond is only as good as the tile's own bond to the substrate, and grout lines often telegraph through. For long-term results, tiles should be lifted and the slab beneath ground and coated directly.

Standard epoxy will yellow when exposed to UV — this is a chemistry issue, not a quality issue. For floors that see direct sunlight (alfresco areas, north-facing garages with open doors), we finish with a UV-stable polyaspartic or polyurethane topcoat that holds its colour for the life of the floor.

Day-to-day: soft broom or microfibre mop. For deeper cleaning, warm water with a neutral pH cleaner (avoid citrus and ammonia-based products which can dull the gloss).

Don't use harsh solvents, scouring pads or acid-based cleaners. Wipe up oil, brake fluid and fuel spills reasonably promptly — epoxy is chemical-resistant, not chemical-proof.

You can, but the results rarely match a professional job. DIY kits use water-borne or thin solvent-borne epoxies that build a film one-tenth the thickness of a professional 100% solids system. More importantly, DIY kits rely on acid etching for surface preparation, which doesn't open the concrete profile nearly as effectively as diamond grinding. Most DIY epoxy floors start peeling within 1–3 years.

They're different resin chemistries that often work together. Epoxy is harder, builds a thicker film and gives you stronger chemical resistance, but cures slowly (24h between coats) and isn't UV stable. Polyaspartic cures in 1–2 hours, is UV stable, and is more flexible — but is more expensive and softer than epoxy.

Most modern premium systems use an epoxy base coat for durability with a polyaspartic topcoat for fast cure and UV resistance — the best of both.

Yes — the floor needs to be completely clear for grinding and coating. For garages we ask that all vehicles, shelving and stored items are moved out. We can recommend short-term storage if you need it. The space needs to remain clear during the cure period as well (see drying times above).